on to Persia
So in August '41 we moved north from Baghdad - thousands of us - not in a column, more in dribs and drabs. We had no idea why or where we were going, but we moved north to Khanaqin on the Iraq - Iran (we called it Persia) border. I found out much later that this had all been arranged by Churchill and Stalin to take over Iran. We stayed a couple of days in Khanaquin and then our group set off to Kermanshah in the mountains. What a change in temperature from Baghdad. The roads, tracks rather, zig-zagged up the mountains and down into the valleys. We now had to set up our own bivvies at night - two per tent.
The valleys were wet, and marshy and full of mosquitoes. The bivouac was only a rectangle of waterproof fabric, with a centre pole, and netting. The air was thick at night with "mozzies". Some came up in huge lumps, but I was never affected. Then of course, we had plagues of Blackwater Fever, and many went down with malaria. Some were ill all the way - many died. The R.C. padre asked me to make crosses. I remember he would speak to the head man of the village and request a burial, and assurances that the grave would be respected. The Roman Catholic padres were the only ones in the field, although all denominations were represented. In all the years, I never saw any others. They all stayed back at base! Our R.C. padre had an old horn gramophone and a few records, and had wee services after breakfast. A circle of men would form round him. I can see him yet, dusting his records and putting them on.
We were now on Indian rations. The Gurkhas purchased meat locally, and butchered it, sheep and goats. It was really awful - very, very oily, and their biscuits were damp with grease - like linseed oil. I couldn't clean out my mouth with the tongue - had to use a finger and scrape the biscuit off the teeth and roof of the mouth.
After a few days at Kermanshah, we moved on to Hamadan. This was a most interesting town. We were allowed into the town in groups. It was a fair size, with covered bazaars. There were streets of trades - carpet makers, coppersmiths, furniture workshops. There were wee kids sewing carpets. A family could spend a lifetime on one carpet. They were huge. The children would finish what their parents had begun. I bought an embroidered sheepskin coat - very cheap. I was pleased to have it, because it was very cold at nights, but after a short time I had to throw it away. It had not been properly cured and it stank to high heaven.
We travelled on to Shahabad, a small town in a valley. There were grapes and fruit growing in the valley and it was the centre of the sugar beet industry. The town was at the end of the valley, and there were a few hundred of us there when scout cars came speeding round with ammo and rations. We were told to prepare ourselves because a regiment of Iranian cavalry were lined up and ready to charge. We had to dig in, machine guns at the ready. The machine guns were of three types - Hotchkiss guns, ancient, belt-driven; Lewis guns (both these were First World War guns) and the odd "Bren". I had my rifle, a Lee Enfield, at the ready. We looked along the valley, in the shimmer, and could see nothing. We lay for two days and two nights. We never moved! On the third day, it was clear, and they had gone.